I don’t get it, Brassaii… where was the food?

The Sublime Martini by Belvedere and Brassaii

I was invited last night to attend the re-opening party at Brassaii by an acquaintance who swings in very different circles. I had honestly never heard of this HUGE restaurant/lounge tucked behind Crush on King St. just West of Spadina. It was a cavernous, artfully lit space, full of the VIP guest-listed and Media reps. Quite beautiful. There was a lot of milling about, drinking martinis and commenting on one another’s fur vests, but not a whole heck of a lot of food. I toted a Sublime Martini written on the menu as featuring Belvedere Vodka (sponsor for the evening), stirred (actually shaken) with fresh pressed grapefruit juice and a wisp of Jasmine syrup (undetectable), sprinkled with wild blueberries (not wild, but cultivated).

With Bruce Woods (not to be confused with Bruce Wood of Salt Spring Island, yeah, that’s what I thought too. Too bad.) at the helm in the kitchen, and all of the advertising about him, I was hoping to sample some of the new menu. I got to try two tiny hors d’oeuvres – one a “Duck prosciutto + balsamic fig chutney + mascarpone cheese” garnished with a little green sprout; the second was a spoonful of tuna tartar “avocado + tropical fruits + wasabi mayo + crispy wonton”. Neither were any good, the avocado-tuna number sat like an ugly, colourless glob in a ceramic spoon and felt like guacamole mush, with no indication of tuna on the palate.  The duck prosciutto looked pretty, but basically tasted like the toasted baguette upon which it sat. All in all, I was just confused about the idea behind gathering the influential people of that scene this place is catering to, but not actually putting their best foot forward. Maybe those were their best feet. Apparently this place has a wicked patio in the summer though, and I’ve heard great things about the Triple S Lunch, and weekend brunch, which ranges from $8-19 for an early meal on Saturdays and Sundays. If anyone would care to take me there for brunch, I’d be happy to give this place a second chance. The menu doesn’t make a concerted effort to use or promote local eating, so it’s not at the top of my list.

What was much more interesting last night, however, was the menu at Buca. Featuring Whey-Fed Pork, ricotta di bufala from Stirling, ON, and other house-made cured meats and sausages in “The Room”. We stopped by there for a quick drink before heading down the street to Brassaii. I had a quick chat with Peter Tsebelis and Chef Roberto Gentile, who were very open to and enthusiastic about answering my nit picky questions about suppliers and the interesting, local ingredients on the dinner menu. I definitely look forward to someone offering to take me there for dinner, hint hint…


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